Result! Snapped bolt out! now putting back together.

[Grimtim2020]

Right i have stripped the head down and removed the snapped injector bolt!

One of the camshafts has lifted up due to the valve springs tension when i removed the camshaft hold down plate and I want to check the timing when i put it back together.


Then align all the camshafts with the gear driven cam with a slot that lines up with the face of the head.

Obviously with a bit of nervousness i will need to turn the cams until all valves are shut? before turning the crankshaft and then setting top dead centre.

Am I right in saying that the engine is set at tdc using a locking tool? I see people have used drill bit in the locking pin hole.

[Doc]

Do not turn the camshaft and crankshaft independently of each other with the cylinder head bolted to the block, you will almost definitely do some damage.
The locking tool will lock the camshaft and crankshaft in a position where one cylinder is at TDC, you need to make sure it's the same cylinder for both.

[SkyRocket1976]

Hi Grimtim,

Welcome to the forum.

Have to you removed the head completely?

And the timing belt?

Or just the rocket cover?

TDC should be set prior to removing the timing belt so hopefully you haven't removed the belt.

Following my own injector change disaster (details in the engine section which you can access once you've made 5+ posts and requested access) I thought I was going to need to remove the head so set about having a good read about how to go about it.

A good old Haynes Manual has always been my go to. There's a digital version for the Caddy now too.

Anyway, I was looking at what tools I was going to need and had decided on this for the timing tool;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255529827149 ... media=COPY

In the end I managed to resolve the issue without needing to remove the head so can't comment on the quality of the timing tool but I've used a couple of other US Pro Tools bits and they've always been decent enough for what I need them for.

[SkyRocket1976]

Out of interest, how did the bolt snap?

Was it front the same pair of injectors that you'd previously removed or from the other pair?

[Grimtim2020]

The original injector was a different cylinder to the previous one. I didnt replace the bolt and tighten back up to the 7Nm plus 180 degrees and it snapped. I will replace the bolts next time I change an injector.


My thoughts so far are I need to remove the head. I have taken the timing belt of the main pulley and removed the clamping down plate of the camshafts. In order to set the tdc i will need to remove the head as I dont want to damage the valves. I guess I need to disconnect the turbo charger as getting to the lower nuts on the manifold could be difficult.

My intention will be to get a timing kit/haynes manual.

I will then take the head off and set tdc.
I will align crankshafts and then replace the clamp.
I will then put head back on and refit timing belts.

[SkyRocket1976]

You should really lock the timing to TDC before removing the belt.

I'd defo get a Haynes Manual and read up on the process.

I find the digital version super useful as you can print out the steps and put them in order rather than flicking back and forth from one chapter to another in instances where the instructions refer you to a different chapter for various steps.

[Grimtim2020]

So far,

I have set the camshaft with the locking pin and adjusted the forward camshaft to the level position.

I have locked the fuel pump and the crankshaft at TDC.

I have replaced the belt.

I have then tensioned the belt.

Time to put it all back together

1 small problem. I have lost the injector bolt hole rubber seal on the head cover anyone know what it is and where I can get one?

[outboarded]

I feel your pain on this! I forgot to turn the engine to TDC and had the inlet cam jump with the spring pressure too - daft mistake. Fortunately I’d used a permanent marker to mark the cams relative to the retaining cradle and was able to line up properly again.

The snapped injector bolts seems such a common issue with this engine that I’m surprised there’s no more information. With hindsight, I probably didn’t even need to remove the cam cradle as the tension on the bolt after snapping was so little it probably would have wound out with a tiny bit of drilling and a small screwdriver.

I used a line of automotive silicon sealant on the cam cradle as that was that was there previously.

Now I just have to get the damned thing to start as the injectors font seem to be firing!


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